Spirited away
The Spirit House, 20 Ninderry Rd,Yandina
Ph: 5446 8994
The Spirit House, 20 Ninderry Rd,Yandina
Ph: 5446 8994
The setting of this Coast favourite is mystical and tranquil. Yandina’s The Spirit House has reached almost mythical status in culinary circles. It is a much lauded restaurant and its cooking school is frequently booked out. Also, there is an entire range of products including delicious spice-creams (their special take on ice-cream) now on the market. The downside of this is there is so much expectation placed on the shoulders of this Asian-inspired restaurant that it risks becoming a victim of its own success.
My partner and I went for lunch and, on entering, felt we had been transported to a land far, far away. Sculpted Buddhas smile benignly and the oppressive heat of summer dissipates quickly among the cool trees. The walk through the rainforest is refreshing and immediately you feel like you are somewhere special.
Wafts of incense (and maybe even mosquito repellent) wash over you as you feel every muscle relax and your mind (in the words of The Beatles) floats downstream. Visitors are greeted with a smile as they are shown to their seats. The tables are placed around the banks of a lake, giving everyone a tranquil view. The restaurant seems to come alive with all sorts of creatures — a turtle, eel and water dragon providing entertainment.
So, too, did a duck, making me feel slightly guilty I had chosen duck as my main dish. There are seven options for entrees that seem to have been inspired by a diverse range of Asian nations. Although Thai cuisine built the backbone and reputation of the restaurant and its associated school and tours, the dishes could best be described as
modern Asian, with flavours ranging from Indian to Chinese to Japanese.
The caramelised pork belly and tea-smoked salmon sounded enticing, but we decided instead to share steamed shitake mushroom and cashew wontons. It is the only vegetarian entree and it was tasty. The moist wonton was served in a bamboo steamer and topped with shredded dried chilli and shallot. The accompanying sauces were excellent and the mushroom leaves a wonderful taste in your mouth that lingers long after the dish has finished. However, at a cost of nearly $20, I don’t feel the price matches the experience.
Mains were again diverse with a choice of seafood, pork, beef, chicken and duck. Our choices were delicious but also seemed overpriced. The five-spice crispy duck was served with star anise plum sauce and wok-seared Asian greens. The sweet sauce didn’t overpower the duck that, unfortunately, was a little dry. The only vegetarian option on the mains list was dal saag with spinach, mushrooms, yoghurt and roti bread. It was made to order but could have been given time for the lentils and carrot to soften some more.
The Spirit House capitalises on its strengths, of which there are many. It is in an excellent location and serenity oozes from the surrounds. The cooking school has proven to be a winner as people indulge in the cuisine of the East, yet I can’t help but feel success has diminished its full impact. But then again, paradoxically in regards to its success, I am just one voice. The food is delicious but maybe expectations have become more of a burden than a bonus.
Gregory Stanton’s visit was unannounced and he paid for his own meals and beverages.
ON THE MENU
Five-spice powder is a mixture of the traditional Chinese flavours of sweet, sour, bitter, savoury and salty. The main spice is star anise with its potent liquorice flavour. The others are fennel, Szechuan pepper, cloves and cinnamon. The powder is used sparingly in soups, marinades or slow-cooked dishes.
The Spirit House
20 Ninderry Rd,
Yandina
Ph: 5446 8994
VERDICT
What to expect // Good cuisine in luscious surrounds
Service // 4
Food and drinks // 3.5
Atmosphere // 4
Value for money // 3
Overall // 3.5
Ratings 5 perfect, 4 excellent,
3 good, 2 disappointing, 1 stay home
MEET THE CHEF - Annette Fear
When did you first realise you wanted to be a chef?
Gosh, I started hospitality on the floor and then I had an opportunity to have a bit of work in the kitchen. That was in my mid-20s. My first career was nursing.
What was the first meal you prepared?
I’ve cooked ever since I was a little kid so I used to cook for the family since I was nine or 10. The first meal I cooked was probably a roast, but I was a great cake baker when I was a kid.
What is your favourite cookbook?
They go in and out of fashion. I use the Stephanie Alexander a lot but I also like the Charmaine Solomon or even the David Thompson. It’s really hard to pick an all-time favourite apart from The Spirit House’s cookbook.
What inspires you in the kitchen?
Travel.
What’s your favourite ingredient?
Garlic, because you can never have too much. Fresh herbs because herbs are essential to cooking. I grow my own herbs so they are fresh and readily available. It’s not hard to cook with food if you have stuff like that.
What tips do you have for people at home?
When it comes to Thai food what people overlook is keeping it simple, the KISS principle. Also, be confident with seasoning and utilise all the produce we have.
Story: Gregory Stanton
My partner and I went for lunch and, on entering, felt we had been transported to a land far, far away. Sculpted Buddhas smile benignly and the oppressive heat of summer dissipates quickly among the cool trees. The walk through the rainforest is refreshing and immediately you feel like you are somewhere special.
Wafts of incense (and maybe even mosquito repellent) wash over you as you feel every muscle relax and your mind (in the words of The Beatles) floats downstream. Visitors are greeted with a smile as they are shown to their seats. The tables are placed around the banks of a lake, giving everyone a tranquil view. The restaurant seems to come alive with all sorts of creatures — a turtle, eel and water dragon providing entertainment.
So, too, did a duck, making me feel slightly guilty I had chosen duck as my main dish. There are seven options for entrees that seem to have been inspired by a diverse range of Asian nations. Although Thai cuisine built the backbone and reputation of the restaurant and its associated school and tours, the dishes could best be described as
modern Asian, with flavours ranging from Indian to Chinese to Japanese.
The caramelised pork belly and tea-smoked salmon sounded enticing, but we decided instead to share steamed shitake mushroom and cashew wontons. It is the only vegetarian entree and it was tasty. The moist wonton was served in a bamboo steamer and topped with shredded dried chilli and shallot. The accompanying sauces were excellent and the mushroom leaves a wonderful taste in your mouth that lingers long after the dish has finished. However, at a cost of nearly $20, I don’t feel the price matches the experience.
Mains were again diverse with a choice of seafood, pork, beef, chicken and duck. Our choices were delicious but also seemed overpriced. The five-spice crispy duck was served with star anise plum sauce and wok-seared Asian greens. The sweet sauce didn’t overpower the duck that, unfortunately, was a little dry. The only vegetarian option on the mains list was dal saag with spinach, mushrooms, yoghurt and roti bread. It was made to order but could have been given time for the lentils and carrot to soften some more.
The Spirit House capitalises on its strengths, of which there are many. It is in an excellent location and serenity oozes from the surrounds. The cooking school has proven to be a winner as people indulge in the cuisine of the East, yet I can’t help but feel success has diminished its full impact. But then again, paradoxically in regards to its success, I am just one voice. The food is delicious but maybe expectations have become more of a burden than a bonus.
Gregory Stanton’s visit was unannounced and he paid for his own meals and beverages.
ON THE MENU
Five-spice powder is a mixture of the traditional Chinese flavours of sweet, sour, bitter, savoury and salty. The main spice is star anise with its potent liquorice flavour. The others are fennel, Szechuan pepper, cloves and cinnamon. The powder is used sparingly in soups, marinades or slow-cooked dishes.
The Spirit House
20 Ninderry Rd,
Yandina
Ph: 5446 8994
VERDICT
What to expect // Good cuisine in luscious surrounds
Service // 4
Food and drinks // 3.5
Atmosphere // 4
Value for money // 3
Overall // 3.5
Ratings 5 perfect, 4 excellent,
3 good, 2 disappointing, 1 stay home
MEET THE CHEF - Annette Fear
When did you first realise you wanted to be a chef?
Gosh, I started hospitality on the floor and then I had an opportunity to have a bit of work in the kitchen. That was in my mid-20s. My first career was nursing.
What was the first meal you prepared?
I’ve cooked ever since I was a little kid so I used to cook for the family since I was nine or 10. The first meal I cooked was probably a roast, but I was a great cake baker when I was a kid.
What is your favourite cookbook?
They go in and out of fashion. I use the Stephanie Alexander a lot but I also like the Charmaine Solomon or even the David Thompson. It’s really hard to pick an all-time favourite apart from The Spirit House’s cookbook.
What inspires you in the kitchen?
Travel.
What’s your favourite ingredient?
Garlic, because you can never have too much. Fresh herbs because herbs are essential to cooking. I grow my own herbs so they are fresh and readily available. It’s not hard to cook with food if you have stuff like that.
What tips do you have for people at home?
When it comes to Thai food what people overlook is keeping it simple, the KISS principle. Also, be confident with seasoning and utilise all the produce we have.
Story: Gregory Stanton
